Casa Blanca Restaurant

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MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE: In the wake of so much that's new around Washington, it's easy for diners to overlook the tried and true -places like the 13-year-old Casa Blanca (1014 Vermont Ave. NW) whose signage has it selling "Spanish food" but whose menu embraces Mexican, Salvadoran and Peruvian dishes. The small storefront comes dressed with nothing but the basics: plain chairs, plain tables, and a counter in the rear for carryout. Do yourself a favor and stick around. The rewards include a satisfying "papa rellena" mashed potato wrapped around core of beef, egg and olives, then fried and crisp morsels of pork partnered with yuca and sprightly salad. Spinach empanadas taste a little bland, but ceviche proves plenty tangy with lime. Meanwhile, arroz con pollo- roast chicken with rice- is best for its fluffy yellow grains, veined with peas and pimento, the rice good enough to star on its own. Owner Cesar Guzman is Peruvian, which explains some of Casa Blanca's flavors; his cooks come from Mexico and El Salvador, which explains the rest of the menu. Entrees $5.75-$11.95. Washington Post article, 2004 By Cathy Kapulka